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Traditional Jewish deli pastrami is marinated, then rubbed with dry spices, then smoked with wood and boiled. Schwartz’s smoked meat is made by marinating the raw brisket in a liquid spice mixture, then slow smoking it in an electric smoker, then steaming. According to the website SeriousEats, traditional American pastrami is made from the navel, the beef version of pork belly, while smoked meat uses the brisket, which is stringier and less fatty, though it has lots of exterior fat. The food: Smoked meat is Montreal’s culinary claim to fame - the city has a unique take on pastrami, and Schwartz’s is the most famous place to try it. Reason to visit: Montreal-style smoked meat. It’s good that the food comes quickly because the whole place smells of delicious meat and makes you very hungry. The turnover is fast and the restaurant feeds far more people every day than seems possible. Once you are seated you could easily study the menu, order, eat, pay and leave in less than 30 minutes. Food starts coming out immediately, as sides like cole slaw or pickles are slammed down, followed by main courses within minutes, and there is a constant buzz of busboys clearing plates and glasses into gray plastic tubs.
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Service is brisk and efficient but friendly enough, and they will take time to answer inevitable questions from uninitiated eaters. Tables are very well worn wood covered with paper placemats, and everything moves at a hectic pace. The eatery is basically one deep narrow room with a galley style kitchen behind a counter with stools in front along the right hand wall and a register in front, where you can buy logo souvenirs from coffee mugs to t-shirts to jars of smoked meat dry spice rub while settling up. It’s open past midnight and popular late night as well. Tables are set into cramped blocks of eight seats, sort of communally, so if two people leave, two more immediately take their place, shoulder to shoulder with other diners.
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It’s a better strategy to go as a smaller group or solo, as twos and threes are often jumped ahead while larger groups may face a lengthy wait (or go early, they serve the full menu from 10:30 a.m.). Schwartz’s has grown so popular that it occupies two adjacent storefronts, one just for takeout, and both typically have long lines out the door and down the sidewalk, though both move well, with the to-go line faster, as there are not that many seats in the restaurant. The Hebrew-style delicatessen has been open since 1928 and its walls are completely plastered with praiseful articles and photos of celebrity guests, ranging from athletes like Hank Aaron, actors such as Jerry Lewis and Burt Lancaster, and the French Canada’s most beloved hometown hero, Celine Dion, now a business partner. It inspired a documentary film and even a live musical. The scene: A historic Montreal institution, Schwartz’s is nothing less than one of the most famous delis in the world. Extra fat is absorbed by the bread, almost like the hand of god covertly spread butter on each slice when I wasn't looking.View Gallery: Try smoked meat at Montreal's famous deli The flavor is peppery with a subtle sweetness that develops from the curing process. The meat is hot all day since its density locks in the heat and moisture for hours.
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The dry-cured meat, generously rubbed in coriander, allspice, salt, pepper, and other "secret spices" is smoked fresh daily after being marinated for ten days.
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The mustard's light acidity and short-lived spice cuts right through the meat's fatty mouthfeel leaving behind a really pleasant texture. The smoked meat sandwich, Schwartz's house speciality, is a generous mound of warm meat resting between two fat slices of rye each swiped with a thin layer of French's yellow mustard. The meat here is so moist I wanted to squeeze out the juice like a sponge dipped in gravy. It's similar to pastrami but the spice blend is unique. This is undoubtedly the juiciest smoked meat sandwich I've ever tasted. It's time to step into Schwartz's, the tiny but immensly popular deli on Montreal's Boulevard Saint-Laurent. There are few ways to fight off the Canadian winter as effective as a hot smoked meat sandwich on an icy-cold day. On Saturdays the line - at times half an hour or more - can be pretty intimidating, but it's worth it. A visit to Montreal would be incomplete without a smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz's.
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